UN-FREAKING-BELIEVABLE, WHAT THE HECK DID I START OR START BACK UP
You guys, I am not asking for the magic spot on MY chassis, I am just trying to understand what does what like most of us bracket races need to know, and how it (SHOULD) effect our chassis's like Ken said, although it probably sounds like it huh?.
Something to think about with my chassis, with the same engine as now, in Sept of 2007, on a cool crisp 58 deg. Sat. morning, first pass with my car that day was magic for me and if felt like no other pass since. I launched the car and it just floated up, I never felt the front suspension stop traveling, nor did I feel the ground when the front end came back down, and it went say ohhh, 3-6 feet out. That was my best pass ever

now I found a bad ARB over time, and was just beating the living crap out of my 10.5 soft sidewalled Hoosier's but boy did they hook. Air bags, 12 way only shocks in the rear and I had 3600+ lbs of sled going 9.90's at 135+mph, now how much power does it take to run that kind of number in that heavy of a car???? I had a I/S about 45" out, and say 8-10" off the ground at the time but had NO idea where my C/G was at all, and that height is a guess.
Now, I have bigger tires, same trans and engine, just a set of tires and now a 4 link suspension with really good shocks and springs this time around, so in therory, I should be able to, set my 4 link up to say 45-48" out and about 8-10" off the ground and go for it and it should be very similar to the stock 4 link GM suspension right? I would think maybe so but have no experience with my 4 link yet, none
Also, the front to rear weight bias was a little heavier before than now, so I now have only 166lbs more in front than the rear, so how much more weight transfer will it take to get my chassis to launch the same or a little bit better than that one day? I have no clue but I am going to try like heck to find that spot before I croke in life.
I try to investigate things before I try or buy them to optimise my end result and not waste too much money and time getting the result I want. This is why I ask these questions on what people run for a setup so I can at least have some info to look at, and think about, read more and then make my best call for a setup, and that's it. I know I will struggle with this suspension, and I am willing to pay for it in time and sweat and blood, but I am like other guys out there, I need to see it and then I can understand it, and that's just me.
So when Billy mentions to try and get the I/C on the 100% A/S line or as close to it as possible, and then other's mention there I/C's and how level and low there bottom bar is, I know there I/C is no where near there 100% a/s LINE, JUST CAN'T EVEN COME CLOSE TO IT!!! UNLESS , like Barry and others that have full tube chassis's and are as low as they can go with everything, I just can't see how a low and down in front angled bottom bar can give a high A/S % in any chassis and I guess this is where I am not getting it.

If I seem like a dead horse, quit beating me then on this subject, and I will just have to figure and realise it myself with testing and logging notes down as always.
You guys really have some great knowledge and info. I will give you all that, and it is not an argument at all, just opinions with paper vs. actual, that's it and I think Math never lies and it proves itself every time. I always sucked at math too
One more thing about my combo is this, it will be able to launch 1000rpm's higher, and just be right under my stall of the conv. now instead of 3600rpm limited by tire size so will I have MORE power for the bigger tires, or not enough?, I know I should have enough if and when I spray another 150-200hp of nitrous thru it!!!
Great info, don't mean to see heads bang together though, so wear helmets

ps, the pic of my Avatar on here to the left is the exact pass I was explaining.